A live current of caffeine pulses through the Fair Shake, made from vanilla ice cream swirled with coffee extract. The shakes are smooth, not crunchy with ice crystals, and drinkable, not so stiff that they fight the straw. It delivers on that pitch most reliably in its shakes and custards. Shake Shack’s pitch is that, yes, even in New York, we can all return to a simpler, cleaner, friendlier place and time. Finally I understood that the people in line were looking for something that doesn’t come in a wax-paper wrapper. After about a third of those trips, I walked away thinking, “Wow, that was an awesome burger.” The other times, the food generally wasn’t worth the wait. I ate at the Shake Shack in Brooklyn and others around the city more than a dozen times recently. It is the people’s endorsement: everybody waits, so it must be worth it. It is a signal of freshness: everybody waits, because the food is cooked to order. The line is democratic: everybody waits, including Mr. Lines are so central to the Shake Shack experience that they have symbolic overtones. While the mayor was talking, a line had formed. Yes, I would give stars to a hamburger stand. To answer two obvious questions right away: Its legacy can be seen not just in the stampede of good, cheap burgers, but in the growing recognition that certain fine-dining values, like caring service and premium ingredients, can be profitably applied outside fine dining all the way down the scale to the most debased restaurant genre of all, the fast-food outlet. One respectable writer has spoken of the burger as life-changing.įrom its origins as a hot-dog cart that the restaurateur Danny Meyer set up as a kind of art project in 2001, Shake Shack has become one of the most influential restaurants of the last decade, studied and copied around the country. There are 14 of them now, uptown, downtown and out of town (Miami, Washington, Kuwait City). It is not every day that the mayor serves as midwife at the birth of a hamburger stand, but it is not every hamburger stand that achieves the prominent spot in the city’s consciousness held by Shake Shack. 20 to formally open the chain’s location on Fulton Mall. Bloomberg snipped through a green ribbon Dec. AFTER tossing out one of those limp politician’s jokes about how its arrival in Brooklyn meant that Shake Shack had finally “hit the big time,” Mayor Michael R.
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